Finding the Great Barrier Island
After a much-needed morning of sleep, we got straight back to it. We lifted anchor and motored Meriwether deeper into the protected waters of Great Barrier Island, where a network of anchorages offered plenty of options for both shelter and exploration. At that point, we weren’t chasing anything specific—we were just happy to be afloat again, protected, and slowly easing back into the rhythm of boat life.
That sense of calm didn’t last long. A proper wind storm was already on its way, only a couple of days out. We briefly considered turning back toward mainland New Zealand and hiding out in a marina, but the thought of undoing the 11-hour motor we had just completed—only to turn around and do it again—didn’t sit well. Instead, we chose an anchorage that offered solid protection from the forecasted direction and committed to riding it out where we were.
With the boat settled, we dropped the dinghy and went exploring before the weather arrived. Just around the next point were a few alternative anchorages worth checking out in case we needed to move quickly, and not far beyond that was Smokehouse Bay, a place we had heard about more than once. Built by locals for cruisers, it had everything from a wood-fired smokehouse and pizza oven to a bathhouse and even basic laundry facilities. Scattered benches, tables, and a fire pit rounded out the setup, making it clear why it’s such a popular stop in the area.
When the storm finally arrived, it did so right on schedule and, thankfully, from the direction we expected. For once, everything worked exactly as planned. The wind howled across the ridgelines above us, and we could hear it tearing through the landscape, but by the time it filtered down into our anchorage it had lost most of its force. We knew something serious was happening just beyond our little pocket of water, but where we sat it was barely more than a reminder. The boat stayed steady, the anchor held firm, and we passed the days comfortably while the weather burned itself out overhead.
As expected, the calm that followed didn’t last long. Another system was already lining up just a few days behind the first. That’s March in New Zealand—something we remembered well. One wind event after another, separated by just enough quiet weather to make you think you might finally get moving. It can be frustrating, especially when you’re eager to get sailing again, but at least this time we had found a place that worked.
We shifted over to Smokehouse Bay for the next round and settled in once more, riding out the next weather event in smooth water and good spirits. We made full use of it—hot showers, a pizza in the oven, and a relaxed evening ashore before things turned windy, again. Not exactly progress in miles, but not a bad way to ease back into life afloat either.
