Waiting in Guaymas

We crossed the Sea of Cortez, and came to Guaymas, for a reason. A few reasons actually. First was to get some canvas work done by a well known canvas worker here in town. we had been carrying around a ton of canvas and related items for over a year now, specifically for this time. The other reason came recently, and that was to get a new roller furler system installed before our big Pacific crossing.

So after a few days relaxing with our high-pitched squealing neighbor, we finally motored in the last mile or so to drop anchor in the Guaymas Harbor proper. Here we could easily shuttle to shore to get laundry done, showers, shopping, start talking with Jorge at Corky’s Canvas, and work out what we need for the new furler. This mostly consisted of mundane work – but for the climbing of the mast again. However, the conversations with Jorge had to be done through a translation app, as neither of us spoke the other person’s language. This ended up working out just fine as the plans were solidified. Now it is just a waiting game to clear his schedule before he can start on replacing all our old, withering, blue canvas.

We used this time to get into Guaymas for a meal or two, some groceries, and most importantly; a much needed dentist visit for us both. Neither of us wanted our already aching tooth (yes, we both had one each) to get worse 1000 miles into our Pacific voyage, so precautions were being taken.

After a week, and with another week of waiting on the books, we decided to go visit San Carlos – 17 miles to the North. The day was a beautiful day to make a short sail, and sail we did – woohoo. San Carlos sorta blew us away as we approached. It’s harbor entrance is surrounded by huge sandstone mountains, and is quite busy with tour boats, each blasting their own tunes while their patrons pretended to have the best time in the world to share it all online to make people they do not know jealous. It is the way I guess. Kerri did trick me into a 2+ mile walk to go get burgers, which were at least worth it even after how tired I was after a day on the water.

Another week has already gone by with no work done on the canvas. Jorge got COVID, and the parts for the furler (and so much more) are in transit to one of Kerri’s friends’ house in Phoenix. This week I will be renting a car to make the 8-hour one way drive to Phoenix, pickup a whole gaggle of boxes, and return before I can start on the furler project. Hopefully the canvas work will start by then too as we are both feeling the itch to get moving to just about anywhere else. There is noting wrong with Guaymas and/or San Carlos, but they are both noisy, smelly at times, and busy. We probably have at least two more weeks of this before we can truly move on, and that is assuming all goes well with the two big projects. Fingers crossed!

About as soon as we anchored in the harbor of San Carlos we hit the dinghy dock and took a two-mile walk on a quest for a delicious hamburger (and stout!). San Carlos is a gorgeous place, surrounded by dramatic geology, with beaches and sea views that are somehow a notch above so many other stops along the Gulf of California. It’s no wonder that it’s another town that has been significantly Americanized and gentrified, with both a booming tourism economy, a large expat community, and hills full of the most expensive homes I’ve seen on the Sea of Cortez, outside of The Cabos. So, I was honestly a bit disappointed in myself when I thought, “I’m going to really like it here!” 😅 But it’s that contrast that’s what keeps me energized for this traveling thing. Sometimes it the raw beauty of nature, being around people who find joy in the simplest of lives, but sometimes, it’s gonna be a delicious, sloppy, perfectly cooked $10 hamburger with $8 cheese fries and a stout and a panoramic ocean view. It’s all good, and it’s all sort of necessary for my psyche. – Kerri